Lewis Crathern has been to Egypt more times than he cares to mention, however, it wasn’t until his latest trip to Dahab that he felt he truly discovered the real Egypt. Forget the tourist spots and the pyramids; this is as authentic as it gets right here.

Lewis Crathern has travelled to Egypt extensively, and he thought he knew what it was all about, until he went to Dahab and discovered a whole new world had been waiting for him!

As a professional kiteboarder, it’s not uncommon to have totted up trips to the same countries in the double figures, and it is often easy to premeditate how the trip will go.

SurfHouse LT (DUOTONE Lithuania) invited me out on a coaching clinic to Dahab, Egypt. I had been to Egypt uncountable times over the past thirteen years including spots like Ras Sudr, El Gouna, Hurghada, Sharm El Sheik, Soma Bay, and Zafarana but Dahab would be a first. I thought I knew what to expect, but now, I can genuinely say that I've had my first real Egyptian experience.

Dahab is a short drive north from Sharm-El-Sheikh airport, which is a relief if you have ever braved the 2-3 hour transfers to some of the other resorts.

The following morning, Kriste and Nerutis, the couple that runs Surfhouse LT pulled up in a stylish1950’s black Jeep, with their kids hanging off the back!

“Welcome to Dahab, Lewis! What would you like to do today? Kite? Football game later with the Bedouins? Coffee? You have to try the cheesecake!" The options were endless, so naturally, we decided to head to the first kite spot called 'Baby Bay', south of where we were staying.

It is always a critical moment when you turn up at a new spot and make that subconscious decision whether you like it or not. It's that first impression that sticks with you forever.

When we arrived at the spot, I realised that it was nothing compared to the way they had described to me, it was far better! I am not a lazy kiteboarder, but I love to get as close to a kite spot as possible with all my gear, and the access was superb; you could drive into the water if you wished.

The water was as flat as a pancake, and the stunning turquoise sea quickly turns deep blue, which was an indication that it becomes deep very quickly. Kite traffic was also not a problem, at a spot like this elsewhere in the world, there would be a minimum of fifty kiteboarders out, and at this spot, there was barely five!

I grabbed my 11m Rebel and went straight out there for my first session. Immediately, I noticed just how beautiful the Sinai Mountains were. They are huge and so close to the shoreline that they make the most beautiful backdrop.

This main spot in Dahab is ideal for intermediates and advanced riders. The wind is clean with no obstructions, and the half moon shape bay has plenty of space. It’s also very easy to blast straight out to sea, heading towards the ever-visible Saudi Arabia, but the flat-water spot is the place to be!

Some of the locals were going for it, eager to show me their freestyle moves, so I grabbed my board with bindings and got involved! For a moment, it felt like I was competing against Sam Light or Ali Barrett back in my old British Tour days, but I reminded myself that I had to prepare for the coaching experience. The clients were showing up soon, and I had to do a quick spot check and dive straight into the lessons.

As the wind is offshore (there is a rescue boat) I would advise beginners to ride in the shallow lagoon just upwind, which is where most of the kite schools are.

Standing right by the water's edge, I found it to be one of the best places for coaching, both for those setting up, and those on the water via my Bb Talkin devices. Once Lesson One was over, and we headed back to our base.

On our way back, we picked up Kriste and Nerutis's kids from school, and they excitedly jumped on the back of the Jeep. “They drive the car sometimes, it’s funny!” Nerutis explains. I don’t know if he was serious, but nothing seems like it is a big deal around here, everything is a maximum10-minute drive away; I like it.

The whole group, including myself, were staying at a lovely big house on the beach, with our private apartments, which were a nice change from the usual hotel experience in Egypt. We were based in the Bedouin region of Dahab, called Asalah, which is just north of the main town. It has a relaxed vibe, and Nerutis tells me how comfortable he feels here.

The local people are great people, and throughout the week, I learn that it’s not uncommon for them to pick his kids up from wherever they are. Doors are left unlocked; things feel safe. I remember thinking to myself, how often have I had this type of experience in Egypt?

One evening, we all headed for dinner, which was a pleasant 20-minute walk along the seafront. There were coffee shops, local restaurants, Indian restaurants, quirky cafes and plenty of interesting shops. I advise calling your partner on FaceTime while you are near the shops, your bags will be heavier a lot heavier on the return leg!

Dahab is a colourful town and has a Moroccan feel to it. The food is exceptional and extremely affordable, and the service is excellent. After dinner, we went to one of the many cafes by the shore, and we tried 'Ice Sheesha', and of course, I had the cheesecake and a coffee. This instantly became one of the valued luxuries of my week after long days on the water!

Walking back along the promenade, I realised that my expectations of ‘just another Egypt trip’ had been entirely wrong. I enjoyed getting around by myself and enjoy the daily walk to and from town. This sort of independence is new to me in Egypt, where usually, you do not leave the resort. I noticed many other families and couples enjoying it as well.

After another great day of kiting, we went scuba diving, and then I’m offered a football game against the locals. I jumped at the chance; I love football, and still, at thirty-three, have aspirations of becoming pro! It’s times like these; you can appreciate how something as simple as football can bring people together. It’s also times like these when you think hard about what other people have in life; some of the children are playing in just there bare feet, but they're happy!

The wind is consistent in Dahab, and after some more kiting action and great evenings out; I started to forget what day it was.

Kriste and Nerutis told me it was time for a new experience, and that we had to prepare for a trip to a secret spot up north. The group does not question the decision for a second. It’s clear that Kriste and Nerutis are great hosts, as well as keen kiteboarders, and can sense that it’s the right time to bring new experiences to the group.

After a short 20-minute drive, we offloaded our equipment into boats and headed north. Next, some old Toyota trucks picked us up, and we went blasting across the desert right at the foot of the Sinai Mountains; it is an incredible experience! Our Bedouin driver was smiling, playing loud music and the trip had become an adventure! This, right here, is exactly what I signed up for when I first started kiteboarding.

After 20 minutes in the trucks, we saw the most beautiful kite spot I have ever seen, along with a small camping area. This would be our home for the next two nights. There is no Internet, and no phone signal; my sort of place!

Off the water, we ate together, sat together, told stories and looked at the stars. We were completely immersed in our passion for kiteboarding and were 100% present with each other. I can’t think of the last time that I had spent time like this.

Towards the end of the week, we kiteboarded out the front of the apartments in Asalah which was also a great kite spot. The reef is deep, and runs parallel to the beach, and has small waves rolling in - an excellent opportunity to teach some new techniques off of the ramps, like transitions.

On my last day, Kriste and Nerutis took the group deep into the mountains. They had a local Bedouin friend there that took us on a day out that I will never forget. He was a calm man, that spoke perfect English, and his two young sons joined us.

We explored the terrain, which had been carved out by the winds and rains over thousands of years. From time to time, he stopped to pick up naturally grown herbs like chamomile and explained how you could use it in everyday life. A small group of his friends prepared incredible food for us and cooked it in the earth. I was getting an abundance of information about Egypt, first hand, to the point that I started to feel guilty it had taken these many years to appreciate it!

When I thought that my day could not get any better, I experienced something I will never forget; I swam in the desert! Luckily, it had rained the day before (which I was told never happens), and I took my once-in-a-lifetime chance, to submerge myself in a deep pool.

With the many checkpoints and things we might see on the news, it’s easy to look at Egypt as quite a controlled place; Dahab is different though. There is a soul to the place, and the pleasant nature of the local people is infectious. This is a Bedouin town, and you can feel it everywhere.

As I head to the airport, I realised I had experienced Egypt in a way that I never had before. I couldn’t recommend Dahab enough to all levels of kiteboarders; you will have a great time!

Thank you to the great group that shared this experience with me and both Kriste and Nerutis for inviting me.

Surf House Lithuania regularly run group trips in both Snow and Kitesurfing.

http://www.surfhouse.lt/
https://www.facebook.com/surfhouseLT/

By Lewis Crathern

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