Cape Town Confidential
Issue 74 / Mon 8th Apr, 2019
Cape Town has become a mecca for kiters over the last few years, events like the King Of The Air have put it on the map like no other place on earth. Is it all it is cracked up to be though? Rou Chater makes the trip to find out what the fuss is all about!
Rou Chater heads to Cape Town after a five-year leave of absence, and asked the question is it really all it’s cracked up to be as a winter destination?
Cape Town was arguably on the kiteboarding map since before the sport was even born, some kiters have been going there every winter for twenty years, which is pretty nuts when you think about it. A lot has changed over the years and after visiting in 2014 and deciding the internet was too slow, and the wind was too, errr, well, windy, Rou decided to make a return visit to see what the fuss was about.
OK so cards on the table here, when I first went to Cape Town in 2014 I wasn’t really smitten, I loved the location, I loved the food, the vibrant city and Table Mountain. The wine, Franschhoek and Stellenbosch, the laid back vibes of Langebaan and the relatively low cost of living to the UK. These were huge selling points that I fell in love with.
However, there were two massive issues for me. As a wave kiter I found when it was windy, you would head to the beach and find 9m weather, pump up a 9 and head out only to find in thirty minutes it was 6m weather. By the time you pumped your 6, it was now nuking, and you’d have a small window of fun wave riding before it became pure survival.
The waves were generally blown out, and choppy and eating lunch was a royal pain in the ass as your burger bun went flying the minute you took your eye off it. The Cape Doctor is a cruel mistress, the very reason this place is so good for kiters is also the reason it isn’t. Or is it.
In recent years, arguably since the popularity of the King Of The Air Cape Town has become THE Mecca for kiteboarders from the northern hemisphere looking for a great spot to ride in the sunshine. Drive down the main drag at Table View when the wind is blowing, and you’ll see not hundreds, but arguably over a thousand kites out.
So what gives, why is a location I struggled to bond with so popular, and why do people flock here in their droves. I’d wager it’s because kiteboarding has changed, sure kiters have been coming here for years, but not in numbers like this. These days with the devices like the WOO and events like KOTA putting big air firmly back on the map the nuking winds of Cape Town that made my sessions so hectic have now become “a la mode” for the travelling kiter.
Where I found winds that were just too much to have any real fun on a surfboard, the need to fly has suddenly made Cape Town a hugely compelling destination. This year I decided to go because I couldn’t kite, I’m still recovering from my horror MTB crash, and after nearly 8 months I still can’t do much other than hobble. I figured if I was going to be stuck on a beach, it might as well be one where I’m not going to feel like I’m missing out too much!
Arriving at the airport felt like familiar territory, right up until they nearly didn’t let me in as I didn’t have a South African passport. I was born in Margate in the UK, turns out there is a Margate in South Africa too, and the immigration lady wasn’t having a bar of it. She insisted that to come to the country I had to use my South African passport which of course I don’t have. Luckily her supervisor put her straight, and after a brief moment of worry, I was back in the motherland.
One of the great things about Cape Town is the short transfer from the airport, it’s about 30 to 45 minutes to get to the beach, meaning that depending on your arrival time you can get a cheeky session in if the wind is on. I’m always a big fan of short transfers, especially after a long flight. I’d kind of screwed this trip up as I flew from NYC on the red-eye to London, then literally had a few hours to swap bags and luggage and jump on another red-eye to Cape Town. I arrived having not laid down flat for over 48 hours. The short transfer was a godsend!
I’d booked an Airbnb in the thick of it, just down the road from Carlucci's, the infamous cafe made famous by Nick Jacobsen reading the menu and eating a sandwich from the top of THAT crane jump. Accommodation in Cape Town is plentiful, and there are lots of options from hotels, appts and houses and even some sheds you can sleep in. Lewis Crathern can attest to how good they are! My thoughts had been to stay close to the beach and the bars so I was in the thick of the action and could walk home at night.
Turns out walking home at night isn’t the most sensible thing to do and a drunken man with a limp is easy prey for the hyenas. First night out and the iPhone and watch were gone, luckily I managed to tussle with the three guys and keep my wallet. I’d been lulled, foolishly, into a false sense of security. Table View had changed a fair bit since I was last there, it looked so modern and fresh, sadly the crime levels in South Africa haven’t really improved. Streetwise is the key here, also Uber.
If you can avoid it, don’t walk anywhere on your own at night, and these days with Uber you can ride anywhere for hardly any cash, the drivers are pretty good, and it’s certainly safer than walking, but keep your wits about you regardless. The Uber service is so good that it actually opens up where you can stay, really the whole area is your oyster as with Uber you can quickly get to wherever you need to be.
Unfortunately this year the wind wasn’t really doing its usual thing, which was a shame as I’d come to shoot kites and enjoy some of the action from the beach. When Table View isn’t working though, if you put the miles in you can always find a spot somewhere. Local guru Luke McGilliwie reckoned he rode every day this year, it was all just about getting off the beaten track and wanting it enough.
For the crew who came to ride Kitebeach and Big Bay, it was few and far between, unless you were on a foil and could snatch the wind when it arrived and get in before it went.
One of the highlights of Cape Town though is just how much awesome stuff that is on your doorstep. It’s like sticking a mega city such as London next to a killer kite spot, except the food is better, the weather is warmer, and there is more to do!
On no wind days, you can head up to the wake park, scale Table Mountain or Lions Head, take a trip to a winery and eat posh nosh and sup fine grape juice. Heck, you can go skydiving, learn to paraglide, ride dirt bikes through the sand, enjoy the scenery in Camps Bay the list is really endless. If you ever have a dull moment here, it’s because you are dull, Cape Town always delivers the goods.
The season runs from November to late April, with the prime wind months considered to be December, January and February. The King OF The Air kicks off at the end of January, usually, and the waiting period lasts for two weeks. There is a conundrum here, it’s right in the windy period, and the event is a sight to behold, you would definitely want to watch it given half a chance.
However, it’s when Table View is at it’s busiest. Currently, there are no air traffic controllers, and it’s like a zoo on the water. People don’t look, they get excited and send it regardless, and it's more hectic than Steve Irwin wrestling stingrays. I can honestly say that during this period there wasn’t a single time I looked longingly at the chaos and thought, “damn I wish I was out there”. It’s crazy town.
The best bet is to time your sessions, get out early or late, avoid the peak periods and you can be blessed with the whole of kite beach to yourself. You can also ride upwind or downwind of the main launch spots and away from the madding crowds. Or drive further upwind or downwind and ride away from the masses at Kite Beach and Big Bay.
There are sessions to be had, you just have to put the effort in to go and find them.
This article wouldn’t be complete without a mention of the King Of The Air. It’s a huge draw for anyone coming to Cape Town. The event is as slick as they come and despite a few issues here and there from a spectator point of view, it is incredible. It’s one thing to watch the live stream and another to be there in the flesh. That said watching it from the comfort of a bar in the Caribbean with a beer in hand has its appeal over being sandblasted.
Fortunately this year the wind wasn’t super strong, 25-35knots at its peak, 20-30knots average. This meant people could stand on the beach and enjoy the action. When it gets windy here the course sand blows with such ferocity it can strip the flesh off a man faster than a pack of hungry Hollywood piranhas will go through a blonde chick in a bikini.
The only downside to the KOTA is it does draw the crowds for that two week waiting period so the water is at it’s busiest those weeks. Mind you, if you want a quiet session, head out during the event, a few guys scored the session of the year just downwind of the event site! It’s very rare there are only a handful of riders out there at 3pm!
Another point to note about the KOTA is that everyone who is anyone in the sport of kiteboarding is here. We’re not just talking pro riders, and there are plenty of those if you fancy rubbing shoulders on the beach with Aaron Hadlow, Nick Jacobsen, Ruben Lenten and Jesse Richman et al.. Most of the brands have a major presence here too, designers, brand managers, marketing gurus, even owners all flock to the beaches of Table View for the King Of The Air.
It’s a great time to do some business as everyone is in this tiny microcosm which makes it very easy to press some flesh and get serious work done. This, of course, leads to another fantastic aspect of Cape Town, the social side. Even outside of the KOTA waiting period there is always something to do in the evenings.
Whether that’s enjoying a beer at sunset at Pakalolo’s (aka Poke A Local if you are in the know) or head to Camps Bay for a Sunday Session at Club Caprice. The bars and clubs are usually full of likeminded people, and if you stay in the Table View area, then there is a good chance most of them are kiters.
If you are looking for a place to kite in the winter where you can meet people and make new friends, Cape Town is high on the list. If you are single then the Tinder game is strong too, I’m not speaking from experience here, but word travels fast on the CT grapevine. On the water and off it there is always something to do and usually some fun like-minded souls to do it with too.
A lot of regulars swear by coming to Cape Town towards the beginning or end of the season, the water is quieter, and the wind can still be fantastic, although the Cape Doctor was a bit of a dud this winter, which means the odds of it being all killer and no filler are on for next year.
Of course, it isn’t just about Kite Beach and Big Bay, to the north, you have the lagoon of Langebaan and the famous Shark Bay which is often a favourite haunt of foilers and beginners alike. To the south you have the wave spots of Scarborough and Witsand, further around the coast, you will find the lagoons at Hermanus. There are hundreds of places to kite here, and if you are down for an adventure you could ride a different spot almost every day of the season!
It would be wrong of me to talk about Cape Town without a mention to the food, the fish and meat are some of the best you will ever eat. From Braai’s in the garden to steak and fish restaurants along the coast and even the produce in the supermarket, you’ll be impressed. As a wounded person who was just here for the steak and beer the spot certainly delivered on that front.
Ultimately though did it win over my heart from 2014, that’s debatable. Undoubtedly people love this place, and I do too, I think I need to go back next year when I can ride again and make a further judgement on the kiting, If you want pretty much guaranteed wind at this time of year with sunshine it is hard to beat. However, the icy cold water and IMHO sub-par wave conditions don’t win it over for me.
I know people are going to slate me for saying that, it’s just that when you’ve ridden some of the best places on the planet, it’s hard not to compare it. Yes it’s great for boosting, yes the waves can be amazing, and the wind can be OK for waveriding, essentially though, this is a hang time paradise, it’s unbeaten in that respect. If boosting massive airs is your thing, then this is the place to be, make no mistake. The cold heavy air delivers an extra punch to your jumps, and there is a reason this place holds all the records and the biggest event on the kiteboarding calendar.
That’s just not me though, I love getting high as much as the next person, and Cape Town will always have a special place in my heart. I’ll be back next year to get lynched for saying this… the kiting here just doesn’t do it for me, although that was probably a good thing, spending six weeks there and not being able to ride would have been torture otherwise!
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By Rou Chater
Rou has been kiting since the sports inception and has been working as an editor and tester for magazines since 2004. He started IKSURFMAG with his brother in 2006 and has tested hundreds of different kites and travelled all over the world to kitesurf. He's a walking encyclopedia of all things kite and is just as passionate about the sport today as he was when he first started!
