Charlotte Consorti finds paradise in the Bahamas. On a trip to this sparsely populated, one-road island, Charlotte discovers waves, flatwater, friendly faces, and sharks! It’s almost the perfect combination for a kite destination!

I love the Bahamas so much; this archipelago is a pure diamond preserved from mass tourism. It’s amazing to be alone in the world on heavenly beaches I love this life without shoes, keys or news, just like the Bahamas slogan says. From November to the end of April, trade winds blow over the 700 islands in the Bahamas, making them the perfect playground for kiteboarding.

Because all things come in threes, after travelling to San Salvador and Exuma, I decide to visit Cat Island. There are two stories about the island’s name; we owe it either to the pirate Arthur Catt or to its shape that resembles a sitting cat. As far as I’m concerned, I never managed to see the shape of a sitting cat. This island is the least populated of the Bahamas and, therefore, a real getaway for an incredible kiting adventure.

Upon arrival in Nassau, the tone was set. Here, time slows down and a smile is king. Hospitality is part of the Bahamian culture, and I could feel it right away. To get to Cat Island, there’s only one airline available: Sky Bahamas. Despite how small the plane is, we don’t have any problems with the board bag, and only a few euros are needed for the extra pounds.

In exchange, we get our boarding pass; a handwritten card with a blue sticker indicating that we are going to Cat Island. This island is about 150 kilometres southeast of Nassau (a 45-minute flight). It’s crazy because it’s barely 400 square kilometers, but it has two airports. The first one is in the north in Arthur’s Town, which is the most important village on the island.

Sydney Poitier, who was the first black actor to win an Oscar in 1963, grew up in Arthur’s Town. Locals are incredibly proud of him. The second airport is located in the south, in the small village of New Bight. The plane makes two stops, which means more time flying over the infinitely blue waters. I can’t stop staring out the window, and I’m already trying to spot the places where I’ll be kiting.

Our car rental agent welcomes us at the mini airport, a little yellow house. He takes us to a tiny supermarket to sign the papers. You won’t find Hertz or Avis here, and the process is fast, a signature and a calculator are all we need. The car is far from being new, but it’s more than enough to travel on the only road on the island.

Despite the fatigue, I have to focus because here they drive on the left. Well, sort of, there are so many holes in the road that everyone drives in the middle; I have to focus even more. There are also chickens and goats that run free in front of the houses. They have a slightly suicidal tendency and throw themselves under the cars. In short, driving on Cat Island is a bit like driving in a video game. Despite all this, we make it to Greenwood safe and sound.

Pauline and Antoine took over the Greenwood Hotel three years ago. They put all their time and love in to bring it back to life. As soon as we set foot in this hotel, we feel at home. Or, rather, we dream that it is home. Pauline and Antoine are everywhere— in the kitchen, repairing a leaky faucet, climbing palm trees to pick a coconut, etc.  What they like most is sharing their passion: diving for Pauline and kitesurfing for Antoine (who also is passionate about magic and music).

Every Friday night, he sings and invites everyone to come and share the stage. As for the magic, every day he’ll show you a new trick; ask him for the orange one, that’s my favourite. The island itself is beautiful but not as beautiful as these two people. I have rarely met people as true, simple and kind. It's so pleasant here that it’s hard to leave the hotel during the day.

However, we had work to do. The island had never been explored with a kite before, and we only had two weeks to discover as many spots as we could. Cat Island is boot-shaped. It is 80 kilometres from north to south and 6.5 kilometres wide. The eastern slope is exposed to trade winds and swell. In the west, the water is calm and crystal clear. One tricky aspect we encountered during our exploration is that the island is so wild and green that many beaches are hard to reach.

We identified 13 potential kite spots on Google Earth. We arrived just at the end of an east wind cycle that had lasted more than a month with twenty knots every day. We were lucky to benefit from unusual wind directions and therefore able to explore new spots. One of the first places we checked out was at the north end of the island just before Arthur's Town. We were looking for a tiny islet located 300 meters from the coast.

The first part was quite simple because we just needed to take the only paved road on the island. The complicated part was finding the small dirt road to the beach. The roads are not maintained at all and, due to minimal traffic, nature quickly takes over. We venture little by little and after half an hour finally, see a magnificent lagoon.

It’s high tide, and we can barely see the little islet. The wind is perfect. It is the last day of east wind, so it blows offshore, offering extra flat water for freestyle. But to get there, we had to earn it. We set up a 17 and a 14m²; it’s safer to have big kites for the crossing, especially with all the gear and the food in my waterproof backpack. We spent the whole day on this islet, watching it get bigger as the tide got lower. We couldn’t stop kiting. It was magical!

The next day, we were lucky to have southwest wind, which is quite uncommon. We seized this opportunity to go and visit Hawknest, a little harbour that is best known for sharks. Indeed, after each fishing trip, the fishermen give the rest of their fish to the sharks, so they are waiting all day long around the pontoon.

We were interested in the small beach nearby: an idyllic place for kiters like us. The spot is tiny as the lagoon forms a small bay of 200 square meters. We even found a couple of hammocks and a palm-covered hut that houses a table and some chairs— the perfect place to alternate between kiting and relaxing. I confess, I wasn’t feeling it at the beginning, but as I was kiting more and more there, I finally did some turns among the sharks. At one point, a shark swam under my board, but I think it was, even more, scared me. 

The forecast showed a big swell for the next few days, so we went to search for waves. Antoine advises us to check out Ocean Dream. It is a place where any incoming swell can hit the reef and throw up some great waves. We first meet the manager to ask if we can surf in front of his hotel. She welcomed us with open arms. She’s looking for someone to take over her resort because she dreams of a more peaceful retreat. In spite of her age, she oversees the reception, the upkeep and the cleaning.

If you dream of working on a paradise island, it’s the perfect job! Me, I love travelling too much, but if one day I have to settle down somewhere, the Bahamas would be on the top of my list. The waves are pumping, but the wind is onshore and too light, so we give up on kiting because it was too hard to get out through the break. We met a surfer who had come to check the spot, and he tells us that he had a fantastic session the day before and that he rarely surfed waves as powerful. Unfortunately, the following days won’t offer the wind direction we need to test the spot.

Instead, the wind comes from the south, which is perfect for Port Howe. This beach is a 10-minute drive from Greenwood and is Antoine’s favourite spot to give lessons. It’s a huge lagoon with a sandy bottom, and it’s shallow enough, so you are never out of your depth. The water is beautiful, and we came across turtles and rays swimming under our boards. Visitors can also visit the ruins of an 18th Century cotton plantation. This is the home of Deveaux family planters. It was offered to American Colonel Andrew Deveaux in 1783 as a thank you for his help against the Spanish invasion in Nassau.

At the end of the week, the wind finally turns northeast so that we can kite in front of the Greenwood Hotel. We seize this opportunity to go downwind because Antoine told us about a wave spot. After a 4km downwinder, we find the spot and the waves are wonderful, about one meter high and very clean. I wasn’t expecting such good waves.

They’re even a bit too hollow for me; it’s my bad side, and I’m not very comfortable, especially with the reef that doesn’t allow many mistakes. The beach is not very welcoming either because it’s mainly cliffs, but it creates a spectacular landscape. We make the most of this session without realising that the wind is dropping. Fortunately, the tide was so low we had enough sand to land the kites and walk back.

We end our stay with a no wind day. We decide to make the most of it and go for a little adventure away from the beaches. We leave for the biggest attraction of the island: Mount Alvernia, which rises to 63 meters. It’s the highest peak in all the Bahamas, and it contributes to Cat Island’s reputation. After spending the last two weeks barefoot, I put my shoes on to climb this mountain. Well, it’s just a 10-minute walk on a path with a very slight slope. But it’s high enough to have a 360° view of the island’s beautiful blue lagoons and green forests.

At the end of the day, while we were pacing the board bags, a little breeze picked up just in front of the Greenwood. Conditions were perfect for the foil that we hadn’t had a chance to use yet. We immediately took the foil and the board out of the bag, set it up and went for a ride that lasted until sunset.

The trip ended with a casual night around the fire, with Antoine singing and playing the guitar. The fire and the stars illuminate the night, and that was for sure a fantastic view to end this adventure.

And, of course, I’ll be back because I still have 677 islands to discover.

How to get there:

There are two airports in Cat Island: New Bight (TBI) in the south of the island and Arthur's Town (ATC) in the north. The closest to Greenwood is New Bight (30-minute drive). Arthur's Town is about 1h30.

The easiest way is to take a flight from Nassau.

To get to Nassau:

From France, Air Caraïbes has just opened a direct flight from Paris Orly. Otherwise, you also have direct flights with British Airways from London and with Condor from Frankfurt. The second solution is to go through the United States with Delta Airlines. The prices are not too high. I paid 600 euros for a Montpellier / Paris / Atlanta / Nassau. Add 200 euros for the board bag for all the flights. You can also find flights with Air France, KLM and American Airlines via Miami.

There are two flights a day from Nassau to New Bight on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

Travellers are allowed luggage of 23kg (50lbs), and then it is 1 dollar per kg above the limit.

I did not get any trouble for the board bag; I just paid the excess weight. Just be careful if you travel in a group with several board bags, tell the company before because the plane is small so it can be a problem to load them all. If this happens, they will try to bring them on the next flight.

There is another interesting option for groups, or if you are coming from the United States. Watermakers Air offers flights to Cat Island from Fort Lauderdale Executive on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays for about 800 dollars (round-trip ticket). If you are a group, you can also book a private charter.

Formalities and Visas:

If you stay less than three months and you’re a French national, no visa is required. You must be in possession of a valid passport with an expiration date greater than six months after your return date. You also need to have a return ticket.

If you are travelling through the United States (even for a few hours) you will need the ESTA (you have to get it online before leaving). Remember to print it because you may have to show it at the departure in France or when you arrive in Nassau. It is valid for two years and costs $ 14. Also, remember to print the proof of your return ticket.

Electricity:

110 / 120V, 60hz American electrical outlet

Tax and Tip:

The prices displayed rarely include taxes. In addition to the VAT (about 7.5%), you must add a tax of 15 to 20% for hotels and 15% for restaurants.

Language: 

The official language is English, and the accent is close to British with typical Bahamian expressions thrown in.

Car rental:

It’s a former British colony, so you drive on the left.

Taxis are quite expensive; it is more economical to rent a car if you want to move every day. For example, it will cost you 60 dollars to get from New Bight airport to Greenwood.

There are no Hertz or Avis agencies, but you can rent a car from a local. Thanks to Greenwood, I rented a car from a small grocery store. He brought the car to me at the airport. I was pleased with the service. The guy was very friendly, and even if the car was a little old, it was functional. Prices start at $100 a day and $350 a week.

Gasoline is quite expensive. Plan to spend 50 dollars per week if you drive every day.

The car is not essential since you can kite in front of the hotel, and if you take lessons with Antoine, he will drive you to others spots if needed. Otherwise, one or two days are enough to visit the island.

Phone and Internet:

There is internet in Greenwood’s public areas.  The internet speed is reasonable considering you’re in the Bahamas. Sometimes it’s a bit slow due to frequent power outages on the island. The GSM network gives a good mobile signal on the island.

When to go:

The eastern trade winds blow from November to April with an average of 15-20 knots.

Temperatures range between 25 and 28 ° C and 24 to 25 ° C for the water. Nights are cool in winter with an average of 18 ° C. Do not hesitate to bring a shorty and a sweatshirt because it cools quickly when the trade winds blow and evenings can be a bit cold.

The rainy season is from May to November, and hurricane season is from August to October.

Where to stay:

The Greenwood Beach Resort is run by a lovely French couple. Double rooms start at $135 a night. Full board for $58  is recommended because there is nothing nearby. As always, you must add to the price 7.5% VAT & 15% gratuity.

Useful links:

Bahamas Tourist Office in France - http://www.bahamas.fr

SKY BAHAMAS - http://www.skybahamas.net

WATERMAKERS AIR - https://www.watermakersair.com

The Greenwood Beach Resort - https://www.greenwoodbeachresort.biz

Health:

No vaccine is required; however, it is advisable to update your vaccination. Visitors from areas infected with yellow fever should be vaccinated.

Note that there are good medical facilities in Nassau, but it’s expensive. There is a small clinic in Cat Island.

Videos

Bahamas, Cat Island Kitesurf Paradise, episode 18
By Charlotte Consorti

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