Have you ever heard of the Exumas? Neither had we until Charlotte Consorti told us about it! If you want an out of this world freeride and freestyle experience, this is it right here!

 

If you look at Google Earth, amid the profound blue of the ocean, a few turquoise dots will grab your attention. These are the Bahamas. I first visited the Bahamas a few years ago, and this kitesurf paradise has stayed in my top three ever since. I usually don’t like returning to the same places because there are so many new destinations to discover. But, every time I went looking for a new destination, those little turquoise dots called me!

I did a lot of research on Exuma, a district of the Bahamas consisting of over 365 islands, also called cays. There’s one spot for every day of the year; sounds pretty ideal doesn’t it? All the islands are stunning and perfect for kiteboarding. Many of the islands are privately owned. I, however, wasn’t lucky enough to be invited to a private island, so I made arrangements to visit Great Exuma.

There were no direct flights from France to Georgetown. My options were to connect through Atlanta or Miami and savour the joys of US transit, with huge queues to get through customs.

In the small plane bound for Georgetown, as we flew over the Bahamas, I was already looking for kite spots. We landed, left the airport and collected the rental car. The lady at the reception was overly helpful, which I found bizarre at the time. I later discovered that all the people on the island are super friendly; it’s in their blood! Once we had loaded up the car with all our gear, we were on our way to our paradisiac hotel, fittingly called Paradise Bay!

The Bahamas are part of the Commonwealth, so cars drive on the left side of the road, which is always tricky for tourists like us. The rental car windshield had a big red “keep left” sticker that served as a reminder. After driving just 500 metres, we were on a road overlooking the lagoon. It was 1 pm, and the sun shone so brightly on the blue water that it hurt my eyes. I downloaded a GPS map on my phone but, with only one road on the island, we easily found the charming hotel, a collection of nine cottages on the beach. Each cottage is named after a different island and painted a different pastel colour.

Cédric, a Frenchman, opened Paradise Bay three years ago. He started renting bed and breakfast rooms in a villa, and then expanded his business. He recently started kitesurfing and plans to rent gear starting next season.

Our typically Bahamian cottage, the Mayaguana, was very spacious. After the 37-hour journey, all I wanted was a nap with the door open. I fell asleep while admiring a spectacular view of the blue water while my ears were soothed by the sound of the sea.

The wind was already blowing, and we needed to find Gary, the kitesurf guru of the island. Gary started his school ten years ago. Born in Nassau, he studied and worked in the US before coming to Exuma for a photo shoot. As soon as arrived, he immediately saw the kiteboarding potential on the island. On his way back to the United States, he was already designing his logo: two pirates swords shaping the X of Exuma Kitesurfing.

His base is on the north end of the island, at Rolleville beach. It’s a 3 km long beach. A dozen tiny islands face the beach and protect the lagoon. At low tide, 50 cm is the maximum water depth, and sandbars start to appear. You can even walk to some of the islands. I think that if I dreamt up the perfect spot, I couldn’t have done any better than Rolleville. The wind blows onshore, and the sandy seabed makes this place perfect. There aren’t any bathers, boats or obstacles of any kind for kilometres. There are no hotels on the beach as Rolleville’s inhabitants protect the land. When we turned up to this magical spot, I was expecting at least 20 kites, but there was only one! We rode until sunset. The trade winds were blowing at 20 knots, as they would for the next three days before dying down.

The lack of wind allowed us to discover new spots. I was genuinely ecstatic every time we pulled into somewhere new. The different shades of blue, and the peace that this place offers is priceless.

Rolleville is at the very north of the island, around 40 minutes by car from the city centre of Georgetown. Because there are no hotels, tourists don’t venture all the way out there. Every time we walked by one of the houses where old men were chilling they would say hello with a big smile. As a general rule, doors remained unlocked, and kite gear could be stored outside the cottage without worrying about theft. A far cry from some of the spots on this planet!

We had the entire Rolleville beach to ourselves. I usually hate stand-up paddle boarding, but I almost started liking it here. The lagoon is so flat in the morning that it’s a pleasure to go for a ride with a natural aquarium under your feet. If you don’t enjoy fish, you can go 1.5 km to the pig island. It’s crazy how Exuma is more famous for pigs than for sea life and beautiful beaches! Give it a shot: Google Exuma, and you’ll only see pictures of pigs!

The real pig island is Big Major Cay, two hours from the island by boat. The pigs have lived on that deserted island for the last 40 years. The story of how they got there is pretty nebulous. Some people say that they came from a shipwrecked boat, and others say that they were brought by sailors who wanted to roast them. The origin of the pigs in Rolleville is a lot less mysterious. A local brought them to entertain tourists. If you’re thinking about kiting to see the pigs, don’t leave your kite on the beach or the pigs will eat it! As soon as I turned around, they were already trying to flip over my SUP board with their snouts.

Another place we went to SUP is Moriah Harbour. We used SUPs to cross the 200 metres that separate the two small islands with the continent. With 25 knots of wind, the current, kite equipment between our legs and photography gear in our backpacks, the SUP crossing was quite tricky!

Moriah Harbour was declared a national park in 2002. It offers a sample of what the Bahamas has to offer in terms of biodiversity. The spot is made up of numerous sand banks surrounded by different shades of blue. Small lemon sharks, stingrays and turtles swam under our legs. We didn’t need a snorkel because the water was so clear. We rode all day without meeting any other kiteboarders, tourists or pigs. It was simply magic.

I wonder how long this paradise will stay preserved and protected. With the decline of the tax heavens around the world, the tourist boom in the Bahamas is only beginning. I could see myself living the Dolce Vita of the Bahamas.

We explored six spots in 14 days, and there are still hundreds to discover. One jewel in particular that I regret not having explored is Sandy Cay, where Pirates of the Caribbean was filmed. Following the shoot, Johnny Depp loved the place so much that he bought a whole island: Little Hall’s Pond Cay.

It was already time to go, and the only thing I wanted was to come back. I found myself looking at Google Earth, searching for the next island to explore. Watch out; the Bahamas are addictive. If you come once, you’ll be hooked. There are more than 700 islands; you could come and live here forever and never get bored!

HOW TO GET THERE

Fly into Georgetown Airport: GGT

There are no direct flights from Europe.

The best price I found was on Delta Airlines with a stopover in Atlanta. 

Return flight price: Montpellier/Paris/Atlanta/Georgetown: 580€ with a night stay in Atlanta.

Plan at least a 3-hour connection in Atlanta to clear the custom’s queue.

You will have to collect your luggage and haul it through the customs inspection.

The Atlanta to Georgetown flight is operated on a very small plane. Kiteboarding equipment is technically forbidden, but windsurf gear and surfboards are allowed, which is rather odd. Luckily, my board bag was accepted both ways. Board bag price: 125€

If you want to avoid stopovers in the US, British Airways offers flights from London to Nassau to Georgetown.

Flights with American Airlines through Miami are also available -- could be a nice stop.

WHERE TO STAY

Paradise Bay:

Rokers Point Settlement on Flamingo Bay is stunning. Paradise Bay is a French-speaking hotel that is full of charm. Seven one-bedroom cottages, four cottages with two bedrooms and a villa with four bedrooms are available.

Prices are from $99 / night/pp, breakfast included.

Try to book in advance because their reservations can fill up months in advance. 

You can kite right in front of the cottages.

This beach has deep water right out front, ideal for foiling.

http://www.paradise-bay-bahamas.com

Kite Cottage:

There are two cottages for rent 200 metres from the beach Rolleville. Each cottage has a view of the lagoon, a small kitchen and wifi.

Cottage with one room: $790/week

Cottage with two rooms: $890 / week

You will be right next to Gary, who is always there to help with anything, especially advice on where to ride.

All the kite adventures start from here.

They also rent paddle boards.

http://www.exumakitesurfing.com

CURRENCY

(BSD) Bahamian dollar 1€ = 1.4 BSD.

You can pay with Bahamian dollars or US dollars everywhere. Withdraw either BSD or USD at the ATMs. There are a few banks and ATMs in Exuma, including one directly in front of the airport.

Visa and Mastercard are often accepted in the shops, but payment with a credit card may incur extra taxes.

HEALTH

There are no mandatory vaccinations, but visitors from malaria-infected areas must present a vaccination certificate.

Be aware of the sand flies (also called no-see-ums) that bite during sunset on the beach. The bites cause burning more than itchiness. To avoid getting bitten, cover your feet and ankles and avoid wearing bright colours. Once bitten, apply Biafine cream or baby powder. They usually bite women more than men because we have less hair.

There are some mosquitos, but compared with the sand flies the mosquitos aren’t bad. Pregnant ladies must be careful because some Zika cases have been reported. Don’t forget to bring sunscreen and a good pair of sunglasses. It sounds obvious, but I forgot them one afternoon and nearly lost my eyesight. 

VISAS

No travel visa is needed.

You need to have a valid passport with an expiration date at least six months after your return date.

If you have a stop over in the US, you’ll need an ESTA that can be purchased online. Print it out before you leave because they might ask you to present it before departure. It’s valid for two years and costs $14.

LANGUAGE

The official language is English. They speak a version of English that’s more British than American, with typical Bahamian expressions mixed in. Some indigenous words such as ‘cassava’ and ‘guana’ are common. A local dialect, similar to creole, is also spoken.

The local dialect can be hard to understand.

CAR RENTAL

Taxis are expensive, so it’s better to rent a car. For example, taxis charge $30 for a short hotel to airport transfer.

Hertz, Avis and other international car rental agencies don’t operate in Exuma, but there are local agencies. I rented from Thompson’s Car Rental, right outside the airport, and I was happy with their professional service. You can book via email: thompsonrental@hotmail.com or on their website http://www.exumacars.com

Expect to pay $60 per day and $300 per week. There’s no need to rent a 4x4. All the kite spots are accessible via the maintained road.

TELEPHONE AND INTERNET

There is the internet almost everywhere on the island, even in restaurants. However, don’t expect a fast connection.

There can be issues with power shortages on the island.

The island is well covered by the GSM network.

WHEN TO GO

The ESE trade winds blow from November through April at 15-20 knots. From December to March, the trade winds can be interrupted by cold fronts. When a front comes in the wind rotates clockwise. The SSW wind suddenly turns to NNE. During a front, there is often a day of 30 + knots of wind. After the front clears, the wind will go back to the usual ESE direction. This cycle can last for several days or all happen within one day.

We experienced four days of trade winds; then a front came through for a week. We brought 9m to 14m kites with us, and we used them all. We could have even used an 8m if we had one.

Air temperatures are between 25 and 28°C, and the water stays around 25°C. Winter nights are chilly and reach as low as 18°C. Bring a shorty wetsuit because it can get cold quickly when the wind is strong.

May to November is the rainy season and August to October is the cyclone season.

KITE SPOTS

COCO PLUM BEACH (ROLLEVILLE)

Coco Plum Beach is the island’s kite beach, even if there are rarely more than five kites in the lagoon. This is the biggest and safest spot. It’s very accessible, and you can walk everywhere. It’s ideal for the freestylers because the sandbars make the water very flat. However, unless it’s high tide, this isn’t the best place for foil riders.

Best wind directions: north, northeast, east

Access: If you want to park near the sandbars, turn 2 kilometres before Rolleville. When you see a blue block, take the track that goes to Shoreline restaurant.

EXUMA POINT (ROLLETOWN)

The best spot for southerly and thermal winds. There is no beach here, and the launching area is very small and protected from the wind. It’s easier to walk 100 m out to the sandbar to launch from there. The spot is a huge, 1 km to 2 km long pool. You can walk throughout the whole area, and there are two or three sandbars in the middle. At low tide, there’s almost no water left in the pool.

Best wind directions: south, southwest, west, northwest. Note: Southeast wind is gusty but rideable.

Access: Drive through Rolleville toward the end of the road, and you’ll drive by the spot. It is right before the turn and at the end of the road.

CRYSTAL (ROLLETOWN)

This beach is named after the colour of the water. It’s the most beautiful spot on the island.

It has been a national park since 2002 and is home to many bird species and a crab nursery.

There are two spots and two islands here. You can choose where to ride according to the wind. You will find some flat zones at either location. The beaches are deserts, and only a few boats go there. You’ll likely be alone. Launching is tricky because there are no beaches.

Best wind directions: northwest for Man-O-War Cay and northeast for Moriah Cay

Access: By boat or through Rolletown. Another option is to rent a SUP and paddle there.

FLAMINGO BAY, (ROCKER’S POINT SETTLEMENT)

Flamingo Bay is a stunning 2 km bay with turquoise water that is deep at all tides. This spot is ideal for foiling or freeriding.

Best wind directions: north, northeast, northwest

Access: If you’re staying at Paradise Bay, the spot is right in front of your room. If not, there are a few access points along the road that follows the bay. You can park at Big D’s.

PEGGY WILD CAY 

Peggy Wild Cay is the perfect spot with to ride southeast wind because the island is ideally located in a wind corridor. The island forms a sandbar that is ideal for launching.

Best wind directions: southeast, south, southwest

Access: Boat access only, 15-minutes from Rolleville. Ask Exuma Kitesurfing for details.

THE MOON (LONG CAY)

This spot is a huge. There’s a half moon-shaped sandbar in front of Long Cay. It rises out of the water just before low tide.

Best wind directions: All directions work because it this place is in the middle of nowhere. It can be gusty with southern winds.

Access: Boat access only, 30 minutes from Rolleville. Ask Exuma Kitesurfing for details.

WHERE TO EAT

Meal prices are pretty much the same everywhere, and they are quite pricey.

For lunch, plan to spend $10-15 for a sandwich or burger, and for dinner plan on $20-30 for fish or chicken and rice.

Everything that’s imported is expensive: $5 for a litre of milk, $6 for a kg of tomatoes, etc.

Shoreline

Shoreline is a restaurant in Rolleville, 100 m from Gary’s kite cottage. It isn’t easy to find, and I think that’s what makes it charming. The owners are very thoughtful, and the food is excellent, especially the fried fish and delicious, homemade sauce.

Haulover Bay Bar & Grill

From Rolletown, follow the signs on the track. It’s a treasure hunt. The terrace overlooks Crystal’s spot. The surroundings are wonderful. There’s a bench in front of the sea and a rope swing tied to a tree. There are seashells everywhere, and if you go at low tide, you can stroll to Moriah Harbour Cay.

La Fourchette

La Fourchette is located next to Paradise Bay. Angelo, the manager, is French and a soon-to-be kiteboarder. He was taking lessons when we were there. The view is very enjoyable, and the food is excellent. This is one of the rare places that is open seven days a week.

Shirley’s

All the tourist guides recommend Shirley’s. I tried Shirley’s during the afternoon, but I wasn’t a fan. The restaurant is overlooking a dirty beach that was covered with dead fish that smelled pretty foul. The food was great, but the place was full of tourists coming from the charter boat.

Chat 'N' Chill

Going to Exuma without going to this place is a real sacrilege. It is located on Stocking Island, and can be reached in 10 minutes via taxi-boat from Georgetown. They serve grilled food every day, and they host a legendary hog roast on Sundays. The service is unapologetically slow --they warn you about it on the menu. Enjoy the extra time to sip a nice Sands or Kalik (Bahamian beers) at one of the picnic tables in the sand. Try the famous, fresh conch salad. You can give the rest of the conch to the stingrays, that will eat out of your hand.

By Charlotte Consorti

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