Charlotte Consorti heads to Kenya thinking she might get to do a bit of kiting and see a bunch of animals. Sadly due to the amazing kite conditions she spent the entire trip shredding and only saw a couple of donkeys!

Kenya usually means safari…or so I thought!

I was headed to Kenya for an adventure split between kitesurfing in this African paradise and experiencing exotic wildlife on Safari. I never expected Kenya to have so many diverse and incredible kite spots; I may be the only person who left the country without seeing an animal; unless donkeys count!

Kenya = Kite!

In the past, I’ve visited Zanzibar, Mozambique, and Madagascar. The only country left to explore on Africa’s east coast was Kenya. While preparing for the trip, I was worried about the forecast and the quality of the kite spots. I wasn't able to find much information on kiting in Kenya online or from my kiter friends. I figured if I ended up with dead calm conditions, I could always go on safari!

My other concern was the safety of the country. Tourism in Kenya has suffered greatly these past few years after widely publicised terrorist attacks and activity from Somali’s jihadist terrorist group: Al-Shabaab. The foreign affairs ministry advises you to stay well clear of the region that borders Somalia, something to keep in mind if you’re planning a trip to Kenya. Luckily, the seaside resorts at the South of Malindi where I would be laying my head are in a high surveillance zone and have a good reputation for safety.

The two most famous Kenyan kite spots are Diani Beach, south of Mombasa, and Che Sale, a few kilometres away from Malindi. My adventurous spirit told me to find somewhere off the beaten track. I began my search on Google Earth, hunting for beach paradises along the coast. I was excited to spot a huge lagoon with turquoise blue water and fine white sand beaches. Was this the flatwater paradise I was looking for?

The closest village to this mystery spot is Watamu, which means ‘someone nice’ in Swahili. It already felt welcoming! After some more research, I discovered a kite school in the village. I reached out to Ben Kelliher, manager of Tribe Watersports, who filled me in on the local spots and recommended the best accommodation.

Travelling to these secret paradises can be a long, arduous task, but I knew it would be worth it! Our first stop was Nairobi, where we had to pick up our luggage and go through customs. We had to change airports and get our visas stamped before flying to Mombasa, arriving after midnight. An unfortunate misunderstanding with our driver meant that no one was there to pick us up. The taxis waiting around for a late-night fare were asking more than double what the hotel had advised, and negotiating in my exhausted state was the last thing I wanted. Despite the tiredness, we settled on a good price and began the last leg of our journey.

The next two hours were spent rocking around on the road, flying over speed bumps in a car without shocks, with a driver who drove as if he was training for the Dakar Rally. After a bumpy night, our early morning arrival in Watamu was heavenly. The room was stunning, and I was already dreaming before I’d even fallen asleep.

As per usual when travelling, I awoke before the sun. Those first magical moments as the light of day brought life to the morning and lit up the scenery around me were unforgettable. I was treated to a view of a spectacular white sand beach with a few rocks dotted around in the water. We had breakfast by the sea, serenaded by the sound of waves as the tide came in.

Today’s program: Find the closest kite spots and say hello to Ben! We would also need to secure a car so we could venture further afield in the days to follow. In a lucky coincidence, our hotel manager was French and seemed to have the answer to everything. He would be a valuable help during our stay.

Renting a car in Watamu is an interesting experience. You won’t find rental agencies like Avis or Hertz there. Instead, you rent cars from the locals. You can also hire tuk-tuks, the most common mode of transport in Watamu. If you’re up for something a little spicier, try the boda-bodas (motorbike taxis). We ended up choosing to rent a car to accommodate our multitude of kite gear.

After organising the rental, we went for a walk along the beach to track down Ben. The beach is around 5 km long, and there are dozens of hotels along the shoreline. Like many beach destinations that promote tourism, it can be difficult to have a quiet walk along the beach without the locals trying to sell you seashell necklaces or excursions using high-pressure sales techniques such as walking with you until you agree to buy something! It was my least favourite thing about Kenya. Lucky for us, most of the vendors did not speak French, so you'll be all right as long as you don’t speak English or utter a word of Italian!

Due to the high population of Italian ex-pats and tourists travelling on direct flights or all-inclusive trips, it seemed like it would be more useful for a traveller to speak Italian than Swahili here! All the beach vendors were fluent. I wouldn’t be surprised if the first words spoken by local babies were ‘Ciao Caramela’- meaning ‘Hello Sweets!’- rather than Mummy or Daddy!

As we walked, we eventually found Ben giving kitesurfing lessons in the water by his school. It’s an ideal place to learn at low tide when the water is low enough that you can walk everywhere and ride on some amazingly flat water. All of Watamu’s kite spots are best at low tide. At high tide, the water is choppy, and the beach is considerably smaller. Equally, when the tidal range isn't large, you may find some of the best sand bars never get to rise out of the water. We quickly learnt that you need to plan your session around the tide and the wind to make the most of the riding here.

We found the perfect conditions for a magical session at the sandbar in front of Ocean Sports, where we had the spot entirely to ourselves. We couldn’t have hoped for a better session to kick off our kite trip in Kenya.

The next morning, we picked up the car and set off to find the spot I’d found on Google Earth…that stunning turquoise lagoon.

We made our way to Jaracanda’s beach, driving across the city and then along a rocky path that goes through a few small villages. We drove past some local kids on their way to school in bare feet and continued to a road that became bumpy and difficult to navigate, testing our rickety car which was about as far as you can get from being a 4x4. With 250,000 km on the odometer on what looked like the original set of tires, we knew carrying on was a risk.

Before we could question our decision too much, we came over a crest and had a view of the sea. We’d found the spot! It was breathtaking, more beautiful than we had imagined. A rocky road took us the rest of the way to the beach, and that little paradise become our spot. We spent half of our trip there and never saw another kite, only a few tourists sipping cocktails, taking selfies, and wondering what we were up to!

In my exploration on Google Earth, I’d found another spot called Mida Creek. This is another huge lagoon surrounded by mangroves. This location only works at low tide, as the current is too strong otherwise. It didn’t turn out to be as flat as we had hoped, but the tide is strong enough that you can go upwind with only 10 knots of wind, you can ride from the moment your kite is stable in the air.

At Mida Creek, the landscape is beautiful and serene, with plenty of birds and large crabs skittering around in the rocks. For an animal lover like me, I was elated to see little monkeys who called the forest their home as we made our way to the spot. The short beach, known as “Short Beach,” (go figure!) offers total privacy. For the first time in our trip, we were truly alone. This is one of Ben’s favourite spots, and he’ll sometimes take his crew or students here for a magical session.

When it came to perfect flatwater for freestyle, the sandbar in front of Ocean Sports is unbeatable. It’s a wild ride, because this private pool is only usable for an hour when the tide is just right. As soon as high tide comes and the water flows over the reef, and the sea becomes choppy.

The last surprise of the trip was the island of Lamu, a tip given to us by Florian, the French manager of Ocean Sports Hotel. I had been hesitant to visit this spot, as it was close to the border of Somalia.

In the past, the island of Lamu has been a popular holiday destination, a favourite haunt of numerous celebrities. Huge seafront properties have been purchased by Brad and Angelina, Mick Jagger, and even Prince Harry and Prince William! The island is a real jewel, and the old town of Lamu is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

After the kidnapping of a 66-year-old French lady in 2011, where she was taken from her home, this area became a red zone. Since then, the island has been under high-security measures and is now in a yellow zone. Out of curiosity, I checked out flights and was surprised to see they were less than 60€ return! I was sold. My safari plans officially went out the window, as our time and budget only allowed for one or the other. When it comes to making a travel decision, I always choose the less touristy options as they offer the most opportunities for a unique adventure.

We decided to spend five days in Lamu, and Florian helped us organise our trip and accommodation at the Kizingo Lodge. We laughed when we found out the only methods of transportation in Lamu were donkeys and boats. It would be an incredible adventure.

As we exited the airport, we followed the rest of the arriving passengers to the dock to get on a boat to take us to our hotel on the other side of the island. We passed through the town of Lamu which is big and surprisingly loud, then floated through a quiet mangrove for the next half hour, it was quite a contrast. We finally disembarked on the beach at Kizingo Lodge, where we found we were the only clients as the season was at its end.

It was a pleasure to enjoy dinner with the owners, Mary-Jo and Louis. They shared the fascinating story of Kizingo’s creation. All of the building materials came from the village next door. After dinner, we retreated to our ‘banda’ on the beach. I was astonished by the beauty of it all. It was hard to leave the swing bed on the terrace, where I could lounge while listening to the sound of waves crashing on the beach and birds calling out to each other.

We had heard that Lamu could be dangerous, but in the end, the island felt much safer than the main land. For five days, we occupied a little bubble, where the only clock was the rise and fall of the tide.

The tidal basins left us each with our own freestyle spots, where we rode every day on 8 or 9m² kites, the wind was stronger than what we’d seen in Watamu. The rest of our time was spent in total relaxation, walking along the 15km of virgin beach and dunes. It has hard to describe the magic of being on a desert island, without a tourist or beach vendor in sight. Our only encounters were with crabs, donkeys, and birds of every colour.

It almost felt like culture shock arriving back in Watamu, where cars, shops, and people appeared at every corner. It felt as if I’d returned from a trip to the moon. We were happy to see Florian again, and his warm welcome made me feel like I’d arrived home. We stayed only one more day before beginning the journey to my real home: France.

The giraffes, lions, and elephants will have to wait for next time. Our hearts are full, and the memories of those unique and beautiful spots that we discovered will last forever. There are so many amazing places to explore…Kenya we will be back!

How To Get Around

Taxi: There are many taxis in Malindi. The vehicles do not have taxi meters. The price must be negotiated in advance.

Boda-Boda: These are motorbike taxis and can be found in town and in front of all hotels. Prices are between 100 and 150 Ksh (1.50€) and do not include a helmet. 

Tuk-Tuks: Little 3 wheeled motorcycles with a roof. Between 100 and 300Ksh (3€).

Bicycle: You can easily rent a bike in town. Be careful as they are driving on the left-hand side of the road in Kenya, and the road is shared with donkeys, cars, motorbikes, and pedestrians.

In Lamu: Slightly more complicated as there are no cars, so you have the choice between donkeys and boats. Keep your budget in mind because a return trip to the city costs around 100USD.

How To Get To Watamu

For flights to Mombasa or Malindi, you will arrive in Nairobi first. In Nairobi, you must collect your luggage and go through customs to get your visa stamped. The luggage transfer is not automatically done, even if your luggage is checked.

Tip: Bring something warm to wear if your transfer is a bit long, as temperatures are considerably lower than by the coast.

From Nairobi, national airlines that offer flights to Mombasa and Malindi include Kenya Airways, JamboJet, AirKenya, and Fly540.

From Malindi, the transfer to Watamu is around 30 minutes long and will cost you between 2000-3000 KSH (25-30USD).

From Mombasa, the transfer is around 2 hours and will cost you between 6000-8000 KSH (70-90USD).

I’d advise you to arrange the transfer with your hotel in advance to avoid negotiating or being overcharged by a taxi at the airport.  Don’t forget to agree to the price in advance as they will often try to raise the price on arrival.

How To Get To Lamu

JamboJet is a very reliable, low-cost airline. Online booking is available on their website.

When To Go

December to March. The Kaskazi wind comes from the North/North-East (port). It blows between 12 and 15 knots, especially in the afternoon. This is high season in Kenya, so the prices are higher.

Temperatures are between 35 and 40°C during the day and 25 and 30°C at night. The water temperature is around 28°C. The sea is quiet and the beaches clean, and you are likely to see turtles and dolphins.

July to September: The Kuzi wind comes from South/South-East (starboard), and blows between 15/20 knots. It gets stronger around 11 am. We spent 14 days out of 15 on the water and used kites from 9m² to 14m², but most of the time we used 11 and 12m². If you’re looking for waves, it’s also the right time to go. The reef is often far out to sea but the waves looked clean. The best wave spot is in Malindi. If you travel up North, the wind is stronger. We had stronger wind in Lamu than in Watamu, where we were kiting on 8m² and 10m².

July/August: Temperatures are between 30 and 33°C during the day and 20 and 23°C at night. Water temperature is around 25°C. You can bring a shorty wetsuit with you when the wind is strong and the sky cloudy. You can get some heavy rain, but it never lasts long. The downside of this period is that currents cover the beach in seaweed.

April to June: Rainy season.

October to November: There is no wind.

Where To Visit

The Arabuko Sokoke Forest is located in Watamu, and you can get there by car or bicycle. It is more than 420km² wide and overflows with birds, butterflies, and plants. With a little patience and a lot of luck, you may even see elephants. The trick is to go at dusk when they are active.

Where To Stay

In Watamu

Ocean Sports: the good thing about this hotel is that it is at the heart of all activities. It’s a fun place at night as it’s where all the locals and kitesurfers go to eat or relax with a drink. The manager is very welcoming and has plenty of good advice. It’s a lovely hotel with dozens of little houses overlooking the sea. The food is excellent… I recommend the fish and chips! It’s one of the rare hotels where you can relax on the beach without being bothered by beach vendors.

http://wwwoceansports.net

In Lamu

Kizingo Lodge: This lodge is perfect because the kite spot is right in front of your room. Mary-Jo, Louis and their staff are very welcoming. The food is delicious, and the decor is delightful. The landscape is there to add peace and luxury to this stunning place.

Where To Learn

Tribe Watersports

http://www.tribe-watersports.com

After travelling the world and improving his skills in numerous water sports, Ben came back to Watamu after 28 years to open his kite school. His teaching method is patient and educational, and I would highly recommend him as an instructor. The school is on Watamu’s beach and is an ideal place to learn.

Check out Ben’s Guide to Watamu: http://www.tribe-watersports.com/2016/08/tribe-guide-to-watamu/

Other Helpful Tips

Passport & Visa

Your passport must be valid for six months after your arrival date.

Evisa is recommended – it costs $51USD and saves you from queuing when you arrive.

Currency

Official currency: Kenyan Shilling (KES)

1€=110KES; 1$=100KES

You can change your money at the Ocean Sports Hotel, where they have a good exchange rate. US dollars are the most used foreign currency. You can also use Euros without difficulty.

Language

Kenya has two official languages: Swahili and English. Italian is also very much used in the Malindi region.

Time

GMT +3. Kenya has +1 hour time difference with France in summer and +2 hours in winter.

Voltage

220/240 V and 50Hz. Plugs are British type three pin plugs and sockets.

Health & Medical

Vaccinations are not mandatory to travel to Kenya. However it is strongly advised that you get vaccinated against yellow fever and cholera, and to get an antimalarial treatment.

Videos

Kenya Kitesurf Paradise, episode 14
By Charlotte Consorti

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